| Kildeer
Police Department Proudly Serving the Villages of Kildeer and Deer Park Jeffrey G. Lilly, Chief |
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Kildeer Kritters
A compendium of wildlife facts for Village residents
Information from the Lake County Health Department Simple Precautions Prevent Wildlife Conflicts Keeping Wildlife Out Of Your Home A Guide To Assisting Wildlife Babies: What to do when you find them
There is no doubt that although Kildeer is a thriving village growing each year, we still continue to maintain our rural atmosphere. The gentle sounds of the wind rustling through the trees or the rich wetland and wooded areas truly set our Village apart from the rest. This type of habitat offers refuge and lodging for many types of wildlife indigenous to the Central United States and the Midwest. Some of examples of the various wildlife found in this area include seasonal and migratory birds such as songbirds, ducks, geese, swans, herons, hawks, and owls. Sharing this habitat are our four legged neighbors such as rabbits, squirrels, raccoons, muskrat, beaver, opossum, woodchucks, deer, fox, and coyotes. Although many of these animals prefer wooded areas, grassy fields, and prairies, they have been known to co-exist in the residential neighborhoods near wildland interface areas. As they forage for food and shelter for survival, encounters between wildlife and their human neighbors is not uncommon. Although observation of the local wildlife is often amusing, educational, and exhilarating, the appearance of wild animals in our subdivisions and near our homes can be a nuisance, and even frightening to some. This brochure seeks to provide information on the habits of local wildlife, offers tips on maintaining a "good neighbor" policy with them, suggestions on "animal proofing" your home, and provides a list of resources for assisting you in dealing with problems and questions you may have.
Information from the Lake County Health Department As much as people enjoy watching the antics of squirrels in their yards, they draw the line when it comes to bunking up with those cute critters. So when a family of squirrels is discovered in an attic, the homeowner usually wants to begin the eviction process immediately. The Animal Control Program of Lake County Health Department receives a large number of phone calls about wildlife home invasion and has help for those who encounter unwanted roommates. Len Hackl, Chief Warden, Animal Control, said, "With every passing year, wildlife is forced to live closer to people as land development continues to increase. That means wildlife is competing with people for food, shelter and space. "Most wild animals invade a house or other structure, such as a garage or tool shed, because their natural habitat has been destroyed and they have easy access to the shelter. Few animals want to live close to people." Most homeowners, when faced with wildlife in attics, in chimneys, under porches or elsewhere on their property, call Animal Control to find out how to trap and remove the animal from the area. "This isn’t always the best idea for the animal - or the homeowner," said Hackl. "Moving an animal away from its territory can be harmful, especially if there are young in the nest." "It also may not be the best solution for homeowners, particularly those who live in wooded areas. Removing one animal from a den may just welcome another animal to take up residence. Skunks especially enjoy taking up residence in vacated dens." In general, an animal that is encouraged to seek food or shelter elsewhere in its territory has a better chance of survival than one that is relocated to another area which may already be at its capacity for that species, Hackl explained. "Home invasion situations are easily solved without elaborate equipment, expense or the need to resort to trapping?" said Hackl. "The key is making the environment undesirable to the animal through the use of light, noise and undesirable smells." Raccoons and squirrels, for example, frequently invade dark, quiet places such as chimneys and attics. The animal's access points to these areas must be located, and all but one closed off. Then the area should be lit to eliminate the darkness the animal prefers. A mechanic's trouble light fits into most areas, and its wire housing protects the animal from burns. A device known as a flasher disc, available at most hardware stores, can be inserted into the mechanic's light to turn it into a strobe light. In a large attic, two lights may be needed. "This strobe light device also can be hung in a chimney from the top," Hackl said. "This is much better than trying to smoke out the animal, because smoke fumes will kill it." The area in which an animal is living also should be disturbed as much as possible. Bang pans or rustle papers, open and close doors, or bang on walls. A radio tuned to a rock and roll or talk station should be left playing day and night. In a chimney situation, the radio can be placed against the damper. "In most cases, the freeloader will be on its way within a short time," the warden explained. "It may take longer if babies are involved. Their mother will need time to locate a new home and then move her babies one at a time." To speed up the process, he suggested, check your immediate area to see if a new home is available and, if there isn't, consider providing one. "Perhaps you could put a hollow log in the landscaping or provide a nesting box," Hackl said. He emphasized not to be impatient: "The alternative could be the smell of dead animals in an hard to reach area." The same principles can be used to evict burrowing animals that den in foundations. If they can be safely kept out of the reach of people and pets, ammonia-soaked rags stuffed into holes are effective, even for skunks. Dens under porches or stairs can be dampened with a hose to encourage the occupant to look elsewhere for a dry bed. Work done to repair the garage caused by home invasion should suit the situation and the animal involved, Hackl said. To block future invasions, chimneys should be professionally capped. Be sure to check local fire regulations when working on the chimney. If gnawing animals are involved, repair material should be metal. Repairs made to guard against digging animals must be sturdy and may have to extend below ground. Hardware cloth bent into an "L" shape will discourage tunneling under repairs. Window wells are seldom homes for wild animals or birds but can be traps for them. To rescue a trapped animal place a wide board in the window well so the animal can climb out. Use caution when placing the board in the well to avoid any possible contact with the wild animal. The board should extend to the top of the well and have some means for the animal to gain traction. A piece of screen, chicken wire or a rag tacked in place is usually enough. A tree limb also works well because the animal can grasp the branches. "There certainly are more effective solutions to home invasion than trapping for both the animal and the homeowner," Hackl said. "Learning to live with and respect the needs of wildlife can pay off with hours of enjoyment watching the antics of our four-footed neighbors."
by Bob Bluett and Marty Jones Environmental awareness seems to be a buzzword for the nineties. We see it in all sorts of advertising. Issues like global warming, endangered species, and the loss of tropical rainforests surface nearly every week in the news. What we don't hear much about are wildlife species that are thriving in our own backyards. This type of awareness often comes first-hand, many times after spending a restless night hearing noises in the attic. Some types of wildlife have adapted well to urban areas. This isn't surprising if you consider that cities provide a smorgasbord of pet food, bird food, table scraps, and garden fare. Shelter is as close as the nearest storm sewer, shed, house, or garage. Species that need more "natural" surroundings can often find them in parks, forest preserves, private estates, and other undeveloped areas. Close living quarters often lead to conflicts between humans and wildlife. In fact, more than 25,000 nuisance wildlife complaints were reported in Illinois during 1991. Nearly 90 percent of these occurred in a nine-county area that includes Chicago and its suburbs. Most nuisance wildlife problems that occur in this area are handled by commercial businesses or municipal animal control officers. Both groups, referred to as Nuisance Wildlife Control Permittees, are issued permits and regulated by the Department of Conservation to ensure that effective, humane, and biologically-sound handling and removal techniques are used. Raccoons cause the most problems in urban areas because they have a tendency to set up housekeeping in attics and chimneys. Squirrels are second on the list for the same reason. Both can cause extensive damage by chewing or ripping through your roof, soffit, or fascia to gain entry. Reports from permittees reflect the abundance of these species and the problems they cause. Last year, permittees handled more than 7,500 raccoons and 4,300 squirrels as a result of damage or nuisance complaints in Cook and the surrounding "collar" counties. Skunks cause problems by burrowing, usually under porches or stoops. They also damage lawns and golf courses while digging for grubs. Nuisance situations, as well as a concern about rabies (skunks are the primary wildlife source of rabies in Illinois), resulted in the removal of more than 2,500 skunks from urban areas during 1991. Other major species include opossums, woodchucks (groundhog), and muskrats, but even badgers, foxes, and coyotes cause an occasional problem. Beavers, once nearly extirpated in Illinois, are now thriving. Their habit of damming creeks and streams can benefit us by slowing erosion and creating habitat for fish and wildlife. But these benefits diminish if a dam is about to flood a neighborhood or if beavers start cutting expensive ornamental trees for their winter food cache. Urban deer cause some unique problems. Unchecked by hunting, their populations often reach or exceed 30 to 40 deer per square mile in some forest preserves in Cook, Lake, and DuPage counties. Concentrations of more than 100 deer per square mile have been observed on a few properties. Browsing by an out-of-control deer population can turn a forest preserve into a "biological desert." They also cause extensive damage to ornamental plantings, golf courses, nurseries, and gardens within striking distance of their daytime haunts. Deer-vehicle collisions are an expensive and sometimes dangerous problem that is growing in both urban and rural areas. According to reports by the Illinois Department of Transportation, wrecks involving deer increased from 2,345 statewide in 1981 to 9,076 in 1990. The human side of the conflict is an important element. Our society has changed drastically during the past century. In our transition to a primarily urban culture, we've lost our ties to the land and our ability' to accept wildlife as part of the urban environment. Many people tend to overreact when they spot an opossum, skunk, or raccoon near their home. Caution should be exercised in a close encounter with any type of wildlife, but under normal circumstances, they're harmless unless provoked. Situations requiring action are usually limited to those involving property damage, residential invasion, or an ongoing threat to human health or safety. Preventing wildlife conflicts is cheaper and easier than solving them once they occur. Don't encourage raccoons, skunks, squirrels, or opossums by feeding them. One or two seem "cute," but you'll change your mind quickly when a dozen start showing up for hand-outs and eyeing your home as a convenient place to live. If you enjoy watching birds, invest in a feeder with a gravity-operated treadle or remove any waste grain that accumulates on the ground. Keep your pet food in the house at night and your trash in the garage until pick-up day. If this isn't possible, an elastic cord placed over the lid of your garbage can from handle to handle can be cheap and effective. Problems like residential invasion usually involve removing or evicting the animal. Although it's possible to do this yourself (a special permit is generally required to trap nuisance animals, even in a box trap), you're probably better off hiring a professional. Check the Yellow Pages or call your local Department of Conservation office for a list of Nuisance Wildlife Control Permittees. Ask to see a person's permit before you hire them. By doing so you'll know that they've passed a test and are expected to follow strict guidelines for handling nuisance animals. Another option is to check with your local animal control unit to find out if they help with nuisance wildlife problems. Whether you get help with removing nuisance animals or you do it yourself, always repair the entry points once the animals are gone. Browsing by deer, rabbits, woodchucks, and other herbivores can be a frustrating, and sometimes expensive, problem. For occasional or seasonal damage, you may want to start by trying commercial repellents available from nurseries. garden stores, or distributors. These chemicals work by emitting a disagreeable taste or odor (check labels closely because some cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption). Be advised that repellents must be applied frequently and may not work at all if deer or other herbivores are abundant. Exclusion is usually the best method of preventing damage to ornamental plants. For deer, this may involve building fences 3 to 4 feet high around clumps of shrubs or small gardens. Plastic tubes provide good protection for individual seedlings. Evergreens can be covered with black plastic netting to discourage browsing. Electric fences work well for defending a perimeter," but you should check local ordinances before putting one up. Products like Polytape, VGS, or Turbo Tape (electric fencing products) are effective, highly visible, fairly inexpensive, and readily available from farm stores or distributors. Widespread damage calls for reduction of the local deer herd. This can generate a considerable amount of controversy. Enough, in fact, that some communities have pursued non-lethal methods of control even though these methods are experimental or just don't work. Failure, however, taught them that lethal methods, like controlled hunting or the use of professional sharpshooters, are the only effective, efficient, and practical means of reducing damage when deer become too numerous. The Illinois Department of Conservation provides technical assistance to communities in need of a deer reduction program. While it's obvious that some types of wildlife are abundant in urban areas and can cause conflicts with human interests, it's important to recognize that most people enjoy seeing wildlife in their backyard. In fact, a survey conducted in 1985 showed that 66 percent of Midwesterners participated in non-consumptive wildlife activities, such as viewing birds or squirrels at a feeder, without leaving their homes. Taking a few precautions, like trash containment, installing chimney caps, or other preventive measures, can allow homeowners to continue enjoying wildlife while avoiding some of the hazards associated with their presence. Many nuisance wildlife problems require solutions that are beyond the scope of this article. If you need technical assistance or more information about laws regarding nuisance wildlife control, contact the Illinois Department of Conservation, Division of Wildlife Resources, 524 South Second Street, Springfield, IL 62706 (2l7) 782-6384). Bob Bluett is Trapper Education Coordinator for the Illinois Department of Conservation, Division of Wildlife Resources in Springfield. Marty Jones is Urban Deer Management Project Manager for the Illinois Department of Conservation Division of Wildlife Resources in Elgin.
Simple Precautions Prevent Wildlife Conflicts Unless you take the proper precautions. there is a chance you could have wildlife as unwanted house guests, warns Illinois Department of Natural Resources Director Brent Manning. Each year. the Department receives many calls from people who are experiencing problems with wildlife and asking for advice. "It's far simpler. as well as less expensive. to prevent conflicts from happening in the first place." Manning said. "A few simple precautions will prevent animals such as raccoons and squirrels from becoming a nuisance at your home." Manning said there are several measures that can be taken to dissuade raccoons from taking up residence in your garage and squirrels from building a nest in your chimney. These and other nuisance prevention tips follow:
Other than taking legal species during hunting and trapping seasons, the Department of Natural Resources has three alternatives to remedy an existing wildlife conflict:
Bob Bluett, fur bearer program manager for the Division of Wildlife Resources. said individuals often are not aware of permit requirements and may undertaken removal efforts without the Department's knowledge. "Our permit procedure enables us to deal with existing nuisance situations and to document the complaints that we are receiving. However. it makes good sense for homeowners and tenants to take some simple precautions so they can prevent problems before they occur." For additional information or to receive a copy of two pamphlets. "Keeping Wildlife Out of Your Home" and "Nuisance Raccoons in Urban Settings". contact the Department's Div. of Wildlife Resources at 524 S. Second St., Springfield. IL 62701-1787.
by Bob Bluett, Fur bearer Program Manager Illinois Dept. of Conservation Accounts by early explorers and settlers Indicate that coyotes were fairly common in Illinois. In 1877, a naturalist In LaSalle County wrote, "The prairie wolf here found their natural habitat, and existed by the thousands. They are a boldly impudent, and mischievous animal, living on rabbits, birds, lambs, pigs, poultry, green corn, watermelons, berries, and almost every thing that comes in their way." The coyote's poor reputation led some county governments to offer bounties. Whether bounties (and unregulated harvests) affected coyote numbers is difficult to say. It's more likely that changes In land use that reduced the quantity and quality of habitat caused populations to decline in some parts of the state by the mid- to late 1800's. One account from Bureau County, written in 1867, stated "The greatest pests were the prairie wolves, they were very plenty, and their howling could be heard almost every night. They have about all disappeared." Coyotes remained relatively scarce in most parts of Illinois until the early 1970's, when their numbers began to increase dramatically. This phenomenon occurred not only in Illinois, but throughout the Midwestern and Eastern states. Data collected by the Illinois Department of Conservation indicate that coyote numbers continued to increase during the early to mid-1980's. Fluctuations during the late 80's and early 90's suggest that the statewide population may be starting to stabilize. Regional populations have followed the same general trend, although some areas of the state have lagged behind others. Northeastern Illinois is a good example. Census figures in 1991 were more than 5 times greater than In 1965. While this doesn't necessarily mean that there are 5 times as many coyotes, it's safe to say that there has been a substantial increase. Many residents in northeastern Illinois would agree. Sightings of coyotes have increased and so have concerns about their presence. However, coyotes seem to cause relatively few problems in Illinois. Part of this might stem from lack of a reporting system that lets us track every damage or nuisance situation. Landowners, especially those in rural areas, can take advantage of fairly liberal hunting and trapping seasons to solve their problems without a special permit. This may help to account for the fact that only about 30 permits are issued annually to landowners to remove nuisance coyotes out of season. People with Commercial Nuisance Wildlife Control Permits remove about 150 coyotes per year. We're not sure how many nuisance coyotes are removed by sport hunters and trappers during the open season, but It's probably significant compared to those documented through special permits. The average annual sport harvest is about 6,800 coyotes, and has been as high as 10,400 animals. Most complaints about coyotes involve livestock losses. when such problems occur, it's usually one or two animals that are responsible. Improved husbandry practices often help, but if problems persist, targeting Individuals that are causing the losses (as opposed to broad-scale removal) is usually the most effective, efficient solution. A problem that seems to be growing (and of more concern to those living in or near metropolitan areas) is the fact that coyotes sometimes kill cats and small dogs. Fortunately, this is easy enough to avoid by keeping pets indoors or in a kennel if outdoors. Whether coyotes have an effect on prey populations is up for debate. However, most evidence suggests that prey abundance regulates coyote numbers, not vice versa. A study conducted In southern Illinois showed that mammals made up about 88% of the coyotes' diet. Cottontail rabbits were by far the most important food source, followed by livestock (probably scavenged from carrion), rodents, and other animal matter. Coyotes also eat deer. Newborn fawns and old or crippled animals are the most likely to be killed by coyotes. A cooperative study between the Illinois Natural History Survey and Department of Conservation showed that coyotes had little or no impact on deer numbers in east-central or north-central Illinois. One of the most common questions is, "are coyotes dangerous?" Any wild animal can be dangerous under the right (or wrong) conditions, but documented attacks on humans are few and far between. Only 16 such cases were reported in North America during the past 3 decades. All of these occurred west of the Mississippi River. In short, you probably shouldn't worry about coyotes attacking you or your children, but exercise caution if you come in contact with an animal that appears sick or has lost its fear of humans. Overall, the coyote's "good" points outweigh the "bad". As a top predator and scavenger, they play an important role in the ecosystem. By killing rodents, they often prevent more damage to crops than they cause by carrying off an occasional chicken or lamb. They're also a valuable fur resource, providing a source of recreation and income for more than 35,000 hunters and trappers.
Many wildlife species can't survive in close proximity to humans, but others have learned to adapt to man’s encroachment on their territory and live among us as secretive, usually unseen neighbors. Some people object to this "intrusion" forgetting that wildlife plays an important role in our environment and that it is, after all, we who are the intruders. Peaceful co-existence with our wild neighbors is most successfully achieved by allowing these animals their niche in the urban environment while taking measures to prevent them from becoming a nuisance. The following do's and don'ts will help prevent problems before they arise. DO’S DO: Tightly screen all access holed into buildings. Vents, gables, chimneys, eaves, and pipes are all potential entryways for wildlife to set up residence in the attic or under the home. DO: Secure trash in sturdy plastic or metal cans with tight fitting lids. If necessary, tie the lids down so they won't become dislodged if the can is tipped over. Also, wait until the morning of pick-up to put trash out. DO: Eliminate any food source which may attract wildlife such as fallen fruit or pet food left unattended. DO: Construct fences and walls high enough to exclude smaller animals. Generally coyotes won't scale a fence higher than 6 feet and an 8 foot fence will discourage most deer. Installing extenders, which angle outward, to the top of each post and running 2 or 3 strands of wire along the extenders will help ensure that these animals don't pass over the top. To stop animals from digging under a fence attach chicken wire to the bottom and bury it at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches outward, parallel to the ground. Burying cinder blocks around the bottom of a fence will also discourage digging. DO: Clear brush, dense ground cover wood piles, and garden debris where rodents may be living. Reducing the rodent population will eliminate an attractive food source for coyotes and snakes. DO: Protect caged animas such as chickens and rabbits. A hutch which stands above ground should have a solid bottom to prevent your pet from becoming easy prey for a coyote or raccoon. Chicken coops must be extremely secure to prevent predators from climbing over or digging under the structure. Also, remember the dexterous hands of raccoons can undo many latches. DON'TS DON'T: Feed wildlife. It will lure animals from the surrounding hillsides in overwhelming numbers leaving them dependent on you for food and at risk from other humans who may harm them. DON'T: Corner or try to catch a wild animal. If you come across a wild animal, keep children and pets at a safe distance and leave it alone. Odds are it wants to get away from you as badly as you want it to leave. If the animal appears injured, call your local animal control agency for assistance. DON'T: Allow pets to roam, especially at night. They may never return. DON'T: Set out poison bait. More than likely the wrong animal will consume it or the dead poisoned animal will be eaten by a non-target animal, such as a hawk or your dog or cat, and in turn be poisoned themselves. Also. a poisoned animal will frequently die under a building or some other inaccessible area leaving you with a smelly carcass. DON'T: Seal an entrance hole in a building or the opening to a den site unless you are certain the animals living there are not present. Make a tracking patch by spreading a thick layer of flour in front of the entrance. When you see paw prints leading away from the opening it is usually safe to seal the entrance. Most animals leave their dens at dusk to search for food. If, however, you cannot catch the animal out of its den, try driving it our by placing ammonia soaked rags into the nesting site: again, make a tracking patch and wait. If necessary, re-soak the rags twice daily. If you are uncertain of the number of animals in the nesting site. try hanging a piece of hardware cloth larger than the opening on the outside. The animals can then swing the hardware cloth outward to escape, but cannot reenter. NEVER seal an entrance during the breeding season (usually March - June); you may trap infant wildlife too young to escape. DON'T: Try to smoke out an animal which is living in your chimney. It can easily be overcome by smoke and fall into the fire. If an animal is trapped in your chimney, place a thick rope into the chimney, far enough to reach the animal, secure it at the top and leave. Most animals will scale the rope and escape. To prevent animals from getting into the chimney in the first place, install a wire mesh cap over the top. OTHER TIPS Trapping and relocating animals is generally not recommended for several reasons. Removing a nuisance animal is only a temporary solution; others will soon move in from surrounding areas to take its place. In some cases it is illegal to trap animals such as raccoons and skunks, because they are furbearers, and protected by law. Animals can only be relocated to specific release sites where studies have shown the area able to support newcomers. Releasing animals into unapproved areas causes problems for the released animal as well as the existing population. For more information about trapping and relocating animals in your area contact your local animal control agency. Many animals do not like walking on an unfamiliar surface. Laying chicken wire or plastic sheeting on the ground may discourage an animal from passing through an area where it is unwelcome. To assist an animal which has become trapped in a window well, lean a rough branch thick enough to support the animal's weight into the window well. The animal can then use it to climb out. To help prevent damage to roofs by wildlife avoid planting creeping vines near walls and keep tree branches trimmed away from buildings. This will help eliminate an animal's access to the roof. Ornamental fish ponds can be protected from raccoons by attaching wire mesh (preferably a type that won't rust) horizontally around the circumference of the pond. It should be at least one foot wide and submerged about 2 to 6 inches. Raccoons cannot reach over the mesh and because it is unstable are unlikely to try standing on it.
KEEPING WILDLIFE OUT OF YOUR HOME Taking a few simple and inexpensive precautions can help to avoid damage to your home and the expense of removing an animal once it's moved in. Many species of wildlife are abundant in metropolitan areas. Their presence can provide recreational and educational viewing opportunities, but it can also cause problems when an animal moves into or damages your home. Most of the negative aspects of urban wildlife can be avoided by taking a few precautions. These measures are usually simple, inexpensive, and can be accomplished yourself with a few household tools. Animals are usually attracted to your home by two things: food and/or shelter. This is especially true for raccoons and squirrels, which are the major sources of complaints about residential invasion by wildlife in Illinois. Some temptations can be removed completely, others need to be minimized. THE FIRST STEP: REMOVE OBVIOUS TEMPTATIONS Removing food and shelter Is the first step in avoiding problems with wildlife. Review the following points to determine which, if any occur near your home and need to be corrected.
POTENTIAL PROBLEM AREAS Fireplace/furnace chimney Install a commercial chimney cap (secure to chimney with bolts or screws; see figure 1). Hardware cloth (use ½" x ½" mesh) provides an economical alternative, but must be secured tightly. Leave a peak or dome over the flue to prevent accumulation of leaves and sticks. Do not use screening material as it will dog with soot, causing a fire hazard. Attic exhaust fan opening Cover bottom of fan from Inside attic with ½" x ½" hardware cloth (a piece that's 18" x 18" will cover most openings). Staple hardware cloth to rafters. For added security, nail or screw 1" x 2" lumber to rafters so that it overlaps the edges of the hardware cloth by approximately 1". Attic end louvers (vents) Cover inside with hardware cloth (½" X ½" mesh). Soffit vents Cover inside or outside with hardware cloth (½" X ½" mesh). Soil stack/exhaust vents Cover outside with hardware cloth (½" X ½" mesh). Window wells Cover top with commercial grate. Decks Decks built more than 2' off the ground generally don’t present a problem. If less than 2' off the ground, dig a 1O" deep trench around perimeter of deck (see figure 2). Nail hardware cloth from top of outside joists to bottom of trench, leaving about 6-8" of extra hardware cloth at bottom which can be bent to form an "L" shape with the "L" facing outside. Fill in the trench; cover outside with wooden lattice for aesthetics. Cement stoops or slabs
Weak or rotted areas in roof, soffit, or fascia Make repairs; Inspect and maintain on a routine basis. IMPORTANT: Take precautions to avoid sealing animals in your chimney or attic when you install a cap or take other measures to exclude wildlife. Sprinkle flour or talcum powder outside potential entry points. If you don't see any tracks (footprints) for 2-3 consecutive days, it's probably safe to proceed with repairs. Holes in your soffit, fascia or roof can be stuffed lightly with 1-2 sheets of crumpled newspaper and checked for subsequent disturbance. For more information, contact: Illinois Department of Conservation, Division of Wildlife Resources, Lincoln Tower Plaza, 524 South Second Street, Springfield, IL 62701-1787 Prepared by Bob Bluett, IDOC, in cooperation with the Rolling Meadows Police Department; 10/92.
A Guide To Assisting Wildlife Babies: What to do when you find them by Ronda DeVold, L.W.R., B.S., L.V.T., North Dakota Is the baby really an orphan? Each year (especially in the Spring), many people call us who have found a baby bird or mammal. People usually think the animal needs their help and want to bring it in. These well meaning individuals usually assume the babies are orphans. Most babies are still under the watchful eye of their parents and are taken from them by people only trying to help. Unlike human babies, wild babies are not constantly watched by their parents and spend large amounts of time alone. (This is especially true of mammals.) In most cases, wild animal babies should be left alone. The following is what we recommend to do in specific situations. BABY BIRDS FLEDGLINGS: People often see baby birds that are partially feathered sitting on the ground below a tree and automatically assume that they fell out of the nest and need to be helped. At this stage in a birds development, they are considered "fledglings". Fledglings NORMALLY will jump or fall out of the nest. This is their "flight training" stage. The mother bird will then continue feeding the bird on the ground until the bird is able to fly (usually only takes a few days). Unless injured, these birds should be left where they are. Efforts should be made to keep cats, dogs, and curious children away from the bird so the mother can continue to feed it. Cat or Dog Danger? If a dog or cat is threatening the baby animal, do not instantly bring the baby in. Rather, keep the pet restrained the short time the baby is there. However, if the animal has already been attacked or picked up by the family pet and is injured, please bring the baby in as soon as possible. NESTLINGS: Baby birds that are naked for the most part (featherless or feathers just starting to come in) are considered to be "nestlings". These birds stay in the nest and the parents come to feed them there. These babies, when found, are usually on the ground directly below the nest. This occurs either because the baby fell out, blew out (common after wind storms), or was "pushed" out by a sibling. One must realize that this last behavior is actually adaptive for some species. This way, only the strongest of the brood survive and go on to raise young themselves. What to do if you find a nestling that is out of the nest: The best thing to do is to try to place the bird back in its nest if at all possible. If the nest cannot be reached for some reason, the following works very well. (This is also the procedure to use if you find the whole nest on the ground.) Make a "makeshift" nest out of a clean Cool-Whip container or margarine dish. Make holes in the bottom of it to allow for water drainage. Line the bowl with paper towels. Then tack the makeshift nest back up in the tree as close to the original nest as possible. Finally, place the baby bird(s) into this and leave. The parents will usually come back in a short time and will feed the babies in it just like it was the original nest. (Often, you will see the mother going back and forth between each "nest", feeding both sets of babies.) The only time we recommend bringing the baby birds in is if you KNOW that the mother is dead or if the babies are injured in any way. The natural parents do a much better job at raising their young than we could ever do. A baby bird that is featherless must be fed every 15-20 minutes from about sunrise to 10 pm! This obviously requires a large time commitment on the part of the foster parent. What if I already touched the birds, the mother won't come back, will she? People often believe this to be true and therefore think they need to keep the babies. This is simply NOT TRUE and is just an old wives tale. Birds in general have a very poor sense of smell (vultures are one exception) and will not mind the fact that you have handled them (but will be bothered by your presence by the babies). If you do find a REAL orphan or injured baby bird, please do the following:
BABY MAMMALS These animals are usually found when the nest has been destroyed or disturbed in some way. Mentioned here are the two most common species we receive calls about. BABY COTTONTAIL RABBITS Cottontail rabbits make their "nests" in small depressions in the grass. The nests are lined with fur from the mother and loosely covered with grass. They are frequently disturbed by people when they are mowing their grass or raking. In addition, dogs and cats find these nests and often kill or injure the babies. If a nest is found or disturbed, please do the following: Replace the baby rabbits back in their nest and leave them there unless they are injured or if you KNOW that the mother has been killed. Many people just assume the mother is dead because they "have been watching the nest all day and have not seen the mom come back at all". This is normal. Female cottontails only come to feed their young early in the morning and at dusk. This decreases the chance of alerting predators to the nest's location. If you are not sure if the mother is coming back to feed them, try placing a string over the nest. If the string has not moved by the following morning, she has not been back. If the babies are cool and appear very hungry, bring them to a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible. In the meantime, keep them in a warm, dark box in some toweling in a quiet location. It is crucial with cottontail babies to bring them in only as a last resort. Baby rabbits have a high death rate when hand raised, due in great part to the stress of handling by humans. People are NOT doing the babies any favors by attempting to raise them themselves. It usually only ends in sadness and frustration. Again, they need special diets, care, and antibiotics if they are to have any chance at survival. Also, when baby rabbits are about 5 inches long, they are totally on their own and away from their mother. These rabbits do not need to be brought in unless they are injured. (If you have to chase the rabbit to catch it, IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE RESCUED!!) BABY SQUIRRELS These are often found after a nest has blown down from a storm. They are best placed into a box set at the base of the tree. The mother will usually come retrieve them when people are not around. Keep dogs, cats, and children away. It may be necessary to keep them overnight and try again the next day. It is best to call your local wildlife rehabilitator for instructions and advice as to if the baby needs to be brought in. If you are requested to bring in the baby, make sure you keep it in a warm and quiet area (usually in a box with toweling) until you can get it in. Always remember the following: A young animal's best chance for survival is to be raised by its natural mother. It is important to make every effort to try to return the young to its mother. ONLY after all efforts to reunite them have been exhausted should the orphan be removed from the wild. DO NOT try to raise the baby yourself. All birds (except Pigeons, European Starlings, and House Sparrows) and most mammals are protected by law and it is illegal to have them in your possession without proper permits from the federal and state government. Proper care and nutrition are crucial to the survival of the baby and any deficiency will more than likely cost the animal its life. Baby animals easily imprint onto whoever is feeding them and steps are needed to prevent this. An animal that is imprinted on people cannot be released back into the wild and usually must be destroyed. NOTE: We frequently have people bring in babies they have been trying to raise themselves that are now having problems. These animals often have metabolic and nerve problems from an improper diet. We can save many more if we get them in right away.
Compiled by Robyn Graboski, L.W.R. This reference sheet was compiled to assist people that receive calls about distressed wildlife. The information compiled was primarily designed to help determine if a baby animal or bird needs attention during "the baby season" and what to do once it is determined an animal needs help. IMPORTANT NOTE: Under game commission regulations, it is illegal for an unlicensed individual to possess a native wild animal. It is important to contact the proper authorities as soon as possible for assistance, such as a wildlife rehabilitator or the Game Commission. Not just because it is illegal to possess a wild animal, but because many animals need attention immediately. MAMMALS Rabbits A young rabbit is on it's own if the fur is fluffy, the ears are standing, and it is the size of a man's fist. In some cases it can be put back where you found it. If it was brought in by a dog or a cat, it is probably injured (although it may not appear to be) and needs special attention. Although possible, rabbits are an unlikely carrier of rabies. Moving a Rabbit Nest It is not recommended to move a rabbit nest. There has been minimal success with moving a nest and the mother finding it. If you can wait usually 1-2 weeks, the babies will be gone and you can continue with your plans. If you must move the nest try to place it close to the original spot. If A Rabbit Nest is Disturbed or Moved Replace all of the fur inside the nest and cover the nest well with dry grass. The mother may return to care for her young. If a baby is placed back in a nest, touch all the babies so they all smell the same. The mother will not reject the babies if you handle them. There has been good success with placing rabbits back in the nest and the mother returning later and taking care of her young. Monitoring a disturbed or moved rabbit nest Before moving the babies from the nest check to see if the mother rabbit returns. Chances are you won't actually see the mother returning because she usually feeds her babies during the night. Check the babies bellies before and after an evening has past. Their bellies should be full in the morning. Also, place a couple strands of string over the nest to see if the nest was disturbed. These are indications that the mother was there. If at all possible it is best to let the mother rabbit raise her babies. Rabbits are hard to raise! Adult rabbits If you can get near one, something is wrong. Use only the box method for catching and transporting. Raccoons, Skunks, and Foxes These babies often play in the woods under their mothers care. Before disturbing them, observe from a distance to see if the mother is indeed watching over them. It's best to leave them alone unless there is an obvious problem. If the mother has been killed, the babies may wander out of the den because they are hungry. They may be crying, look weak or sickly. In this case, the babies need attention. Don't pick these animals up with your bare hands because of the concern of rabies. These animals are the most common carriers of rabies! Adult Raccoons, Skunks, and Foxes These animals are very dangerous and should only be handled by professionals. It is recommended to call either a wildlife rehabilitator for assistance. Squirrels If a baby is found, it probably needs attention. If a baby is seen on the ground, it probably fell out of a tree and most likely has a concussion. If the mother has been killed, the babies may wander out of the nest because they are hungry. These animals are unlikely carriers of rabies. Chipmunks It is very unusual to find a baby. If one is found, it probably needs special attention. If the mother is killed, the babies may wander out of the nest because they are hungry. These animals are unlikely carriers of rabies. Groundhogs It is very unusual to find a baby. If one is found, it probably needs special attention. If the mother is killed, the babies may wander out of the burrow because they are hungry. Sometimes, the babies are washed out of the burrow during a rain storm. Although rare, these animals have been found to carry rabies. Opossums These animals are on their own when they are about 8-10 inches long (not including the tail.) If one is found smaller than 8-10 inches. it probably needs attention. Orphaned babies are often found looking for food near a dead mother especially' alongside roads. These animals rarely contract rabies because of their low body temperature. Bats Bat pups are usually' found in July and early August. Many times bat pups will fall out of trees or housing during a storm. Also. bat pups are found in buildings when they have wandered from the colony. Babies that are furred look very much like the adults except they are smaller, and do not fly well. These babies need assistance. Don't pick these animals up with your bare hands because of the concern of rabies. Bats are a known carrier of rabies. Adult Bats Bats found inside the house other than in July are not babies and can sometimes be released directly outside. Please call a rehabber for assistance when there are bats found inside the house, especially in the dead of winter. to determine if the bat can be released or needs attention. Don't pick these animals up with your bare hands because of the concern of rabies. Bats are a known carrier of rabies. Deer Fawns are often found lying quietly in a field. If you find one and it is not crying, leave it there and check back in 12-24 hours. If it is injured or crying, then it needs special attention. BIRDS The statement, "if you handle baby birds, the mother will reject them" is NOT TRUE! Feathered song birds or fledglings Baby birds are often seen fully feathered but trying to fly, with the parents nearby. These are fledglings. If they look bright and alert. it is best to leave them alone. If possible, keep cats and dogs away from the area for a few days in which time the birds will learn to fly. The parents will continue to care for them even though they are on the ground. I 1 you are not sure the parents are nearby and you are concerned, you may' put the bird in a nearby bush or on a tree branch and observe from inside the house for a few hours. If the mother sees you in the yard she will not come near. Nestling song birds (partially feathered) If the baby bird is bright. alert. and opening it's mouth for food, you can put it back in the nest. If it is not gaping (opening it's mouth for food) or is cold, it may need special attention. In addition, if a bird is injured, it needs help and cannot be placed back in the nest. Birds that are cat caught are assumed to be injured although they may not appear to be. If a bird is featherless, it needs heat. Holding a featherless baby bird in your hand will warm it effectively (SEE DOS AND DON'TS) Since some baby birds need to eat every 1/2 hour or so, it is important to contact a rehabilitator as soon as possible for instructions if it cannot be put back in the nest or the mother is gone. Pigeons and Doves If baby doves are found on the ground. it is usually difficult to find the nest to put them back. Doves make very poor nests which get blown down easily. Pigeons usually don't make nests. Juvenile pigeons are fully feathered and very docile. and rely on their parents for a long time. If you're not sure the bird needs attention. call a rehabilitator. Adult birds If an adult bird can be caught. probably something is wrong and it needs help. Birds and rabies Rabies has been produced in birds experimentally, however. it has never been found in wild bird populations. CATCHING AN ANIMAL Editor’s note: The Village of Kildeer does not recommend that persons not trained in wildlife relocation or handling attempt to catch or otherwise handle any wild animal. This reference material is meant to be used for informational purposes only. Birds Small song birds can sometimes just be picked up, but occasionally, one cannot. A very effective carrying case for "small birds" is a cardboard box or a paper bag with paper towels on the bottom and the top folded down. For hard to catch birds or larger birds, use a box or a sheet to throw over the bird. If catching a raptor or a bird or prey. use leather gloves in addition to a towel or sheet to protect yourself from the bird's talons. If a sheet or towel is used. place the bird in a cardboard box, then unwrap the bird as soon as possible so the bird doesn't overheat. Do not keep a bird of any kind wrapped in a blanket or any type of material for long periods of time. Birds can overheat very easily and die from being wrapped up too long, especially in warm weather. In addition, do not hold an adult bird in your hands for any longer than necessary. They can also overheat in your hands. If a box is used to catch an animal slide a piece of cardboard underneath the box to contain the animal, being careful not to injure the animal in the process. Use extreme caution when using a net with birds, because it may damage the feathers. It is not recommended to put wild birds in wire cages because they may damage their feathers. Mammals It is recommended not to pick up any baby mammals with your bare hands with the exception of rabbits which should be placed directly into a cardboard box. Mammals can be caught by carefully throwing a box or a sheet over the animal. The sheet can be brought up around the animal and tied together to contain the animal for transport if a box is not handy to place it in. Or the animal and the sheet can be placed directly inside a cardboard box. If the box method is used (box is thrown over the animal), slide a piece of cardboard underneath the box to contain the animal. being careful not to injure the animal in the process. The box method is recommended for adult mammals to prevent from being bitten; however, proceed with caution. If the animal is unable to move or shows signs of injury, use the box method. Keep the animal as still as possible while moving it. It is recommended to call a professional to catch injured adult mammals because they can be dangerous. Use only the box method for adult rabbits. Adult rabbits will sometimes kick frantically when handled even when they are seriously injured, and can break their backs in the process. Nets can also be used to catch mammals. It is not recommended to pick up any mammal, especially adults, with your bare hands. They may bite out of fear. Bats should never be picked up with bare hands. Use gloves to pick up the bat or scoop it into a cottage cheese container or a shoe box. Put the container or box under the bat and gently scoop the bat into the container with the lid. Poke very small holes into the box lid with a pencil. Please remember that some bats can squeeze through a l"-2" space. Once the animal has been contained ***DO NOT HANDLE IT*** Do's and Don'ts of Transporting DO: Place the animal in a secure cardboard box with small holes placed in the side or lid. The box should be just big enough for the animal to stand and turn around, to prevent the animal from thrashing around and hurting itself. Place paper towels or a soft cloth on the bottom of the box. DO: Keep the box in a warm. quiet, dark place, away from family pets. Many times wild animals are in shock and at the very least scared. The best thing to do is to keep them warm and quiet until they get help. DO: If the animal is injured. cold, or featherless/hairless, put a heating pad on LOW under half of the box. with a folded towel in between the heating pad and the box. Small creatures that cannot move need to be checked to see that they do not get too hot. Call a rehabber for guidance if you're not sure this is necessary. DO: Try to get an animal help as soon as possible. Some birds need to eat every 1/2 hour. If you cannot get an animal help in 2 hours. call a rehabilitator. DON'T: Keep peeking at the animal or handling the animal. The more you look at an animal or handle it. the more you stress the animal and reduce its chance of survival. Resist the temptation to put an animal inside your shirt. Cute little squirrels are notorious for being covered with fleas. DON'T: Put green grass under an animal. It takes the heat out of them. Drying grass can be toxic to rabbits. DON'T: Give any animal anything to eat or drink especially cows milk. Baby birds can’t digest milk and may die. Many baby mammals are lactose intolerant and may develop diarrhea. DON'T: Handle raccoons. skunks fox. or bats. If anyone gets bitten, scratched, or licked (hence possibly exposed to rabies). that person may need to get expensive rabies shots. In addition. the animal is at risk of being euthanized to be tested for rabies. **For your sake and the animals please bring them to. or contact a wildlife rehabilitator ASAP.
As always, if you have any questions or problems regarding animals, if the animal poses a danger to the public, or if it appears to be sick or injured, you may contact the Kildeer Police Department at (847) 438-6010. The Village of Kildeer has limited resources for the handling of wild or domestic animals. When called for an animal complaint, the Kildeer Police Department will dispatch an officer to the scene who will offer whatever assistance is available or recommend a referral agency. Note: Fees for service or for reimbursement of services provided by contract may be charged by any public or private agency listed in this document. This includes capture, relocation, housing, and disposal of domestic and wild animals or carcasses by the Lake County Health Department and other relocation services. Other community resources include:
Public Agencies
Private agencies Animal removal and relocation
Animal Shelters
Note: The list of private agencies does not represent an endorsement by the Village of Kildeer or the Kildeer Police Department of the services provided by those agencies.
The Village of Kildeer wishes to thank the following authors and agencies for their contributions to the reference material printed in this brochure.
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